Fabric protection: How does it really work?by Jeff Cross

 

 

 

Most cleaners have done it: Purchase a fabric protector product, clean a carpet and then apply the protector, hoping for the best.

 

Sometime it works great; other times, it doesn't.

 

Why? What is behind the science of fabric protection today?

 

Types of protectors

 

 

There are several varieties of protectors you can choose from today.

 

There are silicone-based fabric protectors,

but these repel only water... good for tents, umbrellas and your outdoor work boots, but not the best choice for carpets that receive all types of soils.

 

Fluorochemicals are the dominant force in the fabric protection field, as it relates to carpet and upholstery.

 

Fluorochemicals repel both water and oil, and when used according to manufacturer directions, provide vital protection to the fiber.

 

And that's the key to success: Apply it according to directions, even if you think you are overwetting the carpet. If you don't apply the proper amount, it won't work properly and you have wasted your time and your customers/facilities money.

 

Remember, too: There is a big difference between stain resistance (stain blockers) and fabric protection... stain blocker technology fills the "dye sites" of the fiber (typically added at the mill only), while fabric protection (added at the mill and by most carpet cleaners) lowers the surface energy of the fiber, making it difficult for soils and spills to penetrate that barrier.

 

In essence, this means that soils, spot and stain materials don't even penetrate to the fiber itself, keeping the carpet or furniture clean.

The carrier and drying ability

Fabric protectors are carried by either water or solvent (typically odorless mineral spirits).

It's your choice as to which one to use. Remember the water sensitivity of the fiber you are cleaning.

You should use solvent protectors on many sensitive upholstery fabrics.

Many claim that solvent-carried protectors actually dry the carpet or furniutre faster because the solvent displaces the moisture built up during cleaning.

 

 

Surface tension and protection

 

Fluorochemical protectors work by lowering the surface energy of the carpet or furniture. What does this mean?

 

Materials, such as fibers in textiles, liquids, such as water, detergents, coffee, tea, etc. are measured by what is called a "dyne" rating.

One dictionary definition of "dyne" says this: "...the dyne is a unit of force specified in the centimetre-gram-second (cgs) system of units, symbol "dyn". One dyne is equal to exactly 10-5 newtons. Further, the dyne can be defined as "the force required to accelerate a mass of one gram at a rate of one centimetre per second squared." - (Wikipedia)

Confusing, yes, but to the cleaning industry, it's simply a measurement of potential surface energy, or wetting ability.

 

Normal water has a dynes rating of approximately 73 dynes.

 

Ammonia has approximately 24 dynes.

 

Quality cleaning detergents generally have dynes rating between 25 and 55... it depends on the formulator... and these detergents have to make water "wetter" so that it can penetrate any barrier on the fiber and so that cleaning can take place.

 

But if a detergent has "too much" wetting ability, the chance of overwetting the carpet and backing/pad are greatly increased.

Dry solvents, mainly for spot removal, have a low dynes rating. That's why they penetrate so easily.

 

Surface tension, fabric protection, and spot/stain removal is like golf: The lower score (dynes rating) wins the game.

 

For example: Let's say you apply a fabric protector to a carpet and you lower the dynes rating of the fiber to approximately 15.

 

If coffee is spilled on the carpet, and the coffee has a dynes rating significantly higher, it should not penetrate through the barrier. It should "bead up" on the carpet.

 

Of course, foot traffic, the coffee being very hot (heat affects dyne ratings as higher heat lowers the rating, making the substance penetrate), and other factors can weigh in on whether the fabric is really protected... but all things being equal, the dynes rating indicates that the lower score wins.

 

"Wetter?" What does that mean?

 

One good analogy you can make to explain "wetter" would be with ink pens.

 

Most ink has a dynes rating between 30 and 50.

 

If the dynes rating of ink goes above 50, the ink may not move from the pen onto the paper.

 

On the other hand, if the dynes rating is less than 30, and too "wet", the ink will run out of the pen and make a huge mess.

 

Detergency does that to water. Wetter water (lower dynes) penetrates better for cleaning purposes.

 

Applying a quality fluorochemical provides an invisible shield on the fiber, and lowers the surface energy, the tension, of the fiber and thus repels soils, spots and stains. And then when the fiber needs cleaned, you must choose a detergent that will break through that barrier.

 

For all fibers?

 

Most fibers benefit from fluorochemical protection.

 

Nylon, as the most popular carpet fiber, has an inherent dynes rating of approximately 45... it also has open dye sites. Lowering the surface tension to less than 20 makes for a more protected carpet.

 

Although olefin, as the second most popular synthetic and the one known for excellent stain resistancy, has a dynes rating of approximately 30, it still benefits from protection because fluorochemicals will help the fiber repel dry and oily soils.

Polyester is also inherently stain resistant, but has a dynes rating close to 40. Lowering the rating (surface tension) means it stays clean longer. 

Upholstery fibers - such as cotton, rayon and typically other natural materials - need protection especially from oily soils, such as from skin contact.

As an example of lower dynes and durability (barrier), look at a product such as Tyvek®, the well-known protective fabric. It has a dynes rating of 30, very similar to olefin.

 

Practical points

 

Like all cleaning applications, there is the practical side of things.

 

1. Follow directions

2. Make sure the surface you are protecting is as clean as possible

3. As you apply the product, work it into the fiber with a brush or groom

4. Speed dry when possible

5. Keep traffic to a minimum for at least 24 hours after application. Remember that like most chemicals, protectors need time to set up and "cure"

6. Don't tell your customers/facilities that this will make their fabrics bullet-proof - if you do, they will test your statement

 

http://www.advantagecleaningteam.com/ or http://www.janiservu.com/